Yerupaja or Nevado Yerupaja is a mountain of the Cordillera Huayhuash in north central Peru, part of the Andes. At 6,635 m it is the second-highest in Peru and the highest in the Cordillera Huayhuash. The summit was first reached in 1950 by Jim Maxwell and Dave Harrah, and its northern peak (Yerupaja Norte) in 1968 by the Wellingtonian Roger Bates and Graeme Dingle.
The mountain's local name is El Carnicero, which means The Butcher. This name refers to the knife-edge-sharpness of its summit ridge, and possibly to the climbers who have died trying to climb it. Many visitors consider Yerupaja to be the most spectacular peak in South America.
There have been only a few successful ascents of the peak because it is one of the hardest Andean high peaks to climb. The most popular route is the southwest face. The approach is normally made from Huaraz southwards via Chiquian and Jahuacocha.
1950 Southern flank of West Face FA of peak by David Harrah and James Maxwell.
1966 Direct West Face 2nd ascent of peak, FA of route over 13 days by Leif Patterson and Jorge Peterek.
1968 Northeast Face FA of route by Chris Jones and Paul Dix , supported by Dean Caldwell and Roger Hart (all USA).
Yerupaja on Summitpost
Complete guide to the Huayhuash Andean Circuit (in spanish)
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